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Walk in closet: Edith Head

Imposible haber visto Los Increíbles y no recordar a la excéntrica diseñadora Edna Moda. Un singular personaje que capturó la atención del público con su look peculiar, actitud atrevida y frases como “I never look back, darling! It distracts from the now.” Si bien el director de la película nunca ha revelado la verdadera inspiración detrás de la mini celebridad, los rumores apuntan a la diseñadora de vestuario Edith Head.

Edith nació bajo el nombre de Edith Claire Posener en octubre de 1897 en California. Empezó su carrera como profesora de francés, teniendo un bachiller con especialización en ese idioma, además de una maestría en lenguas románticas de Stanford. Más adelante, buscando un sueldo mayor, tomó el puesto de profesora de arte, a pesar de tener conocimientos muy básicos sobre el tema. Para mejorar sus habilidades artísticas, empezó a tomar clases nocturnas en un instituto de arte ahora conocido como CalArts. Fue a través de una de sus compañeras de clase que conoció a Charles Head, con quien se casó en 1923.


En 1924 postuló como diseñadora de vestuario a Paramount Pictures. Al no tener experiencia en el rubro, usó los bocetos de otro estudiante como portafolio y fue contratada. Empezó diseñando el vestuario de películas mudas, y fue recién en 1933, con la película de Mae West, She Done Him Wrong, que su nombre empezó a sonar en la industria. Su talento era tal, que en 1938 fue nombrada directora del departamento de vestuario de Paramount, la primera mujer en tener ese puesto.

Su manera de trabajar la diferenció del resto y la convirtió en una de las diseñadoras más famosas de Hollywood. Head explicó en una entrevista que, al empezar a trabajar con los actores en una nueva película, les hacía una especie de examen de personalidad en el que veía además como caminaban, hablaban y se veían en la pantalla. A partir de esto, comenzaba el proceso creativo, y una vez listo, se realizaba la prueba de vestuario. En todo este proceso, Head llegaba a conocer a cada una de forma mucho más personal, entablando buenas amistades con estrellas como Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn y Bette Davis. Incluso, muchas actrices especificaban en sus contratos que ella tenía que ser la diseñadora en cada una de sus películas. 

Roman Holiday (1953), Sabrina (1954), Funny Face (1957)

Uno de los diseños con mayor influencia hasta el día de hoy es el que usó Elizabeth Taylor en A Place in the Sun. Se dice que este fue el primer vestido strapless en la gran pantalla, y sigue siendo copiado por muchos diseñadores tanto para vestidos de novia como para fiestas de prom.

En 1967, después de más de cuatro décadas, dejó Paramount Pictures para unirse a Universal Pictures, donde trabajó hasta su muerte en 1981. A lo largo de su carrera, Edith Head trabajó como diseñadora en 444 películas. Además, fue nominada al Oscar 35 veces por diseño de vestuario, y lo ganó 8, siendo hasta hoy en día la mujer con más premios en la historia.

En una entrevista en 1975 dijo, “nosotros los diseñadores de vestuario somos como magos. Le pedimos al público que crea una y otra vez que el mismo actor, la misma actriz, las mismas personas, son diferentes personajes.” Es así como, mientras Edna Moda vestía superhéroes, Edith Head vistió a la realeza de Hollywood.


Fuente de imágenes: latimes.com, thefamilysavvy.com, elle.com, classiq.me, Oscars.org

Sandra Mathey
Diseñadora de modas egresada de Mod’Art Perú y el Fashion Institute of Technology en Nueva York. Adicta al running y al brunch. Trabaja en trend forecasting mientras espera su carta de aceptación a Hogwarts.
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