CULINARIUM

Opinión: ¿Cocina tradicional o de vanguardia?

Hace ya  algunos años, existe un gran debate sobre que es mejor: la cocina tradicional o la de vanguardia/moderna. La cocina tradicional se define como esos platos que nos dan la emoción del recuerdo. Representan tradición, cultura, algo íntimo en donde se utilizan productos de la zona; son los platos que nos preparaban desde niños en casa. La cocina de vanguardia se basa mucho en la ciencia, investigación y técnicas, reinventa los platos tradicionales. Propone nuevas textura, formas visuales, busca sorprender al comensal con una nueva experiencia a través de los sentidos.

En mi caso, la cocina molecular (que encaja en lo moderno o de vanguardia) siempre me llamo más la atención. Para mí, nada supera un buen plato de comida casera pero la verdad es que después de haberme sentado a probar menús de cocina vanguardia, me quede verdaderamente sorprendida de como uno puede jugar con los sentidos del comensal y hacer que viva una experiencia nueva al probar.

El vanguardismo se basa más en el lado artístico de la comida y moderniza los platos típicos. Para llegar al plato final se necesita de muchísima investigación. La mayoría utiliza productos químicos como nitrógeno líquido, xantina, alginato, kappa, ácido tartárico, agar agar, etc. Se busca utilizar insumos nuevos y a la vez incorporar algunos tradicionales.

Cuando la cocina molecular salió a la luz hubo mucha polémica sobre ella debido al uso de químicos, aditivos y productos de laboratorios pero con investigaciones se concluyó que estos productos si están permitidos dentro de la gastronomía sin hacer daño al comensal.

Admito que no hay nada como la comida tradicional. Nos da un sentimiento de confort de placer y de felicidad. Para mí los  platos tradicionales nos marcan como cultura, como quienes somos, nos representa como país. Cada plato tiene su historia, cada familia tiene sus tradiciones, pero sí creo que la cocina molecular y la cocina tradicional van de la mano hoy en día. Creando nuevas experiencias y creando nuevas formas de comer y pasa un momento agradable y divertido. Convierte el plato en una obra de arte y definitivamente lo moderno no sería lo mismo sin lo tradicional.

Francesca Ferreyros
Cocinera egresada de la carrera de gastronomia y arte culinario de Le Cordon Bleu Perú, viajando y aprendiendo, actualmente Stager de Gaggan.
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