CULINARIUM

Crónica: El Chifa más trendy de Lima

Insultar la culinaria y cultura china es escupir al cielo. La influencia de la cocina china representada en prácticas, insumos y utensilios que trajeron los primeros inmigrantes chinos, hoy es reconocible en muchos platos que llamamos ‘peruanos’. Recuerda que ese lomo saltado por el que pagas 65 soles tiene más aporte oriental que peruano o español. Históricamente, el Perú le debe a China mucho más que los chifas o la ropa que estás vistiendo, y lo seguirá haciendo. Si bien somos muchos adeptos de los chifas, aún se mantiene la desafortunada costumbre de despotricar contra ellos. A veces motivados por malas prácticas de algunos restauradores que no representan el grueso de empresarios laboriosos, quienes con infatigable esfuerzo, han sabido hacerse lugar en una Lima hostil, tal y como lo hicieron los primeros inmigrantes. La última noticia de chifas (sí, son y serán muchas) fue la de Liu Xiunhuan (33), acusado de cocinar perros.

Los animalistas y sus visceralidades (a veces no justificadas, como es el caso) encendieron una llama que trajo consigo un ensañamiento mediático masivo y digital contra la comunidad china. Una llama que “casi quema el restaurante”, según Liu. Lo que empezó con el caso específico del Chifa Asia alcanzó a toda una comunidad. Expresiones racistas como “Estamos en el Perú, no en China” y otras de grueso calibre revelaron que los odiossolo están en reposo y necesitan un impulso para multiplicarse velozmente. Lo lamentable fue la usual ligereza de los medios a la hora de expectorar noticias sin confirmar y mucho menos sin medir los efectos del descrédito a un negocio, o a toda una comunidad. En prensa digital parece que lo único que vale la pena medir son los KPIs. Es la tolerancia hacia el amarillismo sumada al hambre por los clics, los que condicionan a los medios a proponer temas espectaculares, en lugar de serios. Por mientras, un negocio cierra por dos semanas.

Cuando se reveló que la carne era res la historia cambió. Con ánimo sensacionalista (nunca de arrepentimiento), los medios empezaron a crear historias alrededor de un simpático empresario chino acusado injustamente. Por su lado, personajes conocidos, entre chefs, empresarios y figuras públicas supieron solidarizarse. Nosotros, entre solidarios y curiosos, visitamos al que pasó de ser el chifa más vilipendiado a ser el más trendy. La larga cola nos recordó a Mistura. Alrededor mucha gente tomaba fotos sorprendida y otros ironizaban los sucesos. Varios siguieron arremetiendo con frases “ahí está el chifa wau wau”, “no aprenden y van a comer perro”, alimentando el morbo más que el estómago. Todo esto nos impactó más que la comida, que no tenía nada de especial salvo la historia que giraba alrededor. Quizás Liu podría aprovechar la incesante demanda para convertir a comensales curiosos en fieles. Al final de la cena abordamos a Liu para saludarlo efusivamente y pude verlo: esto no da para una crónica culinaria, esto es una reflexión y un deseo. Ojala los peruanos fuéramos con nuestra gente como somos con nuestra comida. La aceptamos, la queremos y la defendemos con fiereza, aún sabiendo que lo peruano es español, africano, chino, andino, amazónico, japonés, etc.

Carlos Estéban Sánchez Ramírez
Marketero irremediable, comunicador por vocación. La cocina es un arma social para la inclusión. Asesoro negocios culinarios.
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