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Rusia, otra experiencia ‘underground’

Jair Villacrez

Ya estás en Rusia. Has viajado varias horas desde tu país de origen o desde tu lugar de residencia para ver a tu selección o simplemente porque quieres disfrutar del Mundial. Eres un apasionado o apasionada del fútbol, pero al mismo tiempo quieres aprovechar en visitar el país con el territorio más grande del mundo. Sin embargo, quieres aprovechar en llevarte una experiencia diferente y no solo la de un turista común. Aquí te damos algunos consejos para que puedas experimentar este increíble país:

  1. ¿Moscú o San Petersburgo?

Muchos viajeros se enfrentan al dilema de tener que elegir entre estas dos ciudades cuando disponen de poco tiempo. Moscú es, por lo general, la primera ciudad a la que todos llegan cuando visitan Rusia, por ser la “más internacional”. Sin embargo, este país es tan grande que sus territorios son tan diversos y hay muchas variedades culturales. Incluso, la segunda ciudad más importante, San Petersburgo, es muy diferente a la capital. Para algunos es la ciudad más europea de la nación, por encontrarse más próxima a los países de Europa del Norte y del Este; mientras que se dice que “Moscú es más Rusia”.

Sin embargo, esto es una falacia: ambas ciudades están situadas del lado europeo, donde se concentra el 73% de la población. Entonces, no es verdad que uno experimentará más “Rusia” si va a Moscú y descarta San Petersburgo. Mi consejo es que visiten ambas ciudades. Las dos son muy hermosas y cada una tiene su propio encanto. Ambas son histórica, arquitectónica y culturalmente increíbles. Particularmente, me quedé más fascinado con San Petersburgo porque cada rincón es bello, mientras que a Moscú la percibí más occidentalizada, precisamente por ser “más internacional”. Pero ustedes decidirán.

Río Moika congelado. Al fondo se aprecia la Iglesia del Salvador sobre la sangre derramada, en San Petersburgo. (Foto: Jair Villacrez)

  1. “Moscú es más que la Plaza Roja”

Cuando uno visita la capital rusa lo primero que quiere hacer es conocer la famosa Plaza Roja y no moverse de ahí. Esto porque en ese lado se encuentran los principales y más emblemáticos monumentos y construcciones del país: el Kremlin, en cuyos exteriores también se puede visitar el mausoleo de Lenin; el GUM, el bello centro comercial cuya construcción data de 1890; el Museo Estatal de Historia de Rusia, la Catedral de Kazán; y, por supuesto, la Catedral de San Basilio. Contigua a la Plaza Roja, también se puede encontrar la Plaza de la Revolución. Y muy cerca de ahí, a poco más de un kilómetro, está la Catedral de Cristo Salvador (caminando es aproximadamente 25 minutos). Todos estos monumentos son muy preciosos. La mayoría de turistas prefiere quedarse por esta zona precisamente por ser la más turística, pero Moscú es más que eso.

Esta ciudad es muy rica en historia y cultura, por lo que deberías sacarle provecho lo más que puedas. Estos son algunos lugares que probablemente no te queden tan cerca de la zona turística, pero que deberías aprovechar en visitar en Moscú, porque si no lo haces, puede que te arrepientas: el teatro Bolshói, la calle peatonal Arbat, el Monasterio de Novodevichy, el parque Kolomenskoye, la Universidad Estatal de Moscú, el Museo Pushkin, el Bunker 42, el parque Gorki, el mercado de Izmailovo, el edificio del Ministerio de Asuntos Exteriores, Sérguiev Posad y, si dispones de más tiempo, visita Zúzdal, situada a poco más de 200 kilómetros de la capital rusa. Y algo más: piérdanse por la calle Sérguiev Posad de Moscú, hagan una buena caminata.

Catedral de San Basilio, el principal atractivo de la Plaza Roja, en Moscú. (Foto: Jair Villacrez)

  1. Experimenta el metro de Moscú, la ‘Flecha roja’ y el ‘Transiberiano’

A todos estos lugares que mencionamos antes se puede acceder por metro o tren, lo cual será una buena excusa para visitar muchas estaciones del Metro de Moscú, una verdadera joya arquitectónica, probablemente de las estaciones más bellas del mundo. Casi todas parecen museos e, incluso, palacios, debido al buen estado en el que se encuentran, pese a haber sido construidas en la década de los 30 del siglo pasado. Sé que a muchos viajeros no les gusta usar el transporte público y optan por el taxi para evitar aprenderse rutas y ver los “complicados mapas”, pero créanme que se perderán un gran tesoro si no conocen el Metro de Moscú.

En cuanto a la ‘Flecha roja’ (krasnaia Strela), es un reconocido tren que conecta las dos ciudades más importantes del país: Moscú y San Petersburgo. En 1931 fue mandado a construir por Stallin para los miembros más destacados de su Gobierno. Este sistema de transporte lleva funcionando más de 85 años. Con este tren sentirás estar viajando en el tiempo. Dentro hay literas para los pasajeros, debido a que es un tren nocturno. Cada vagón está decorado con cortinas elegantes, piso y objetos de lujo. Uno podría pensar que este tren es costoso, pero la verdad es que su precio es bastante accesible: ronda entre 40 y 60 euros. Y un detalle: la mayoría de sus promociones están en ruso, por lo que es recomendable comprarlas en ese idioma y no usar la versión en inglés, al menos que no tengan problemas en gastar más de lo necesario.

Y, finalmente, el Transiberiano. Este ferrocarril, considerado el más largo del mundo, conecta los territorios rusos de Europa con el Lejano Oriente ruso, Mongolia, China y Corea del Norte. A diferencia del tren ‘Flecha roja’, este no es un medio de transporte tan lujoso, pese a que tiene servicios especiales. Sin embargo, es otra forma de vivir la verdadera experiencia rusa, especialmente, si quieres conocer la famosa región de la Siberia, donde experimentarás el real frío de Rusia, incluso en verano. Aquí los precios sí son muy variados: van desde los 140 euros para la tercera clase (cuyos trenes son los más lentos) hasta cerca de 750 euros (los trenes más rápidos). Sin embargo, vale la pena tomar este tren, es una manera de recorrer casi todo el territorio de la Federación Rusa. Los precios también se justifican por la misma extensión territorial, es como recorrer entre 15 y 20 países de Europa y 6 o 7 de América del Sur. De todos modos, si quieren ahorrarse el viaje y no les gusta pasar tantas horas dentro de un vehículo, existen muchas opciones de vuelos para todos los precios. Pero, no hay nada como el Transiberiano.

Interior de una de las estaciones del Metro en Moscú. (Foto: Jair Villacrez)

  1. Visita la Siberia

Siempre nos imaginamos a Rusia como un país frío, lleno de nieve. Nuestro referente es su invierno. Sin embargo, ahora es casi temporada de verano, aunque igual hay sensación de frío por ser un país al norte. Ahora bien, quienes hayan viajado en temporada de verano seguramente querrán experimentar el “invierno ruso”, y eso lo pueden hacer, sin lugar a dudas, en la Siberia. Esta es una de las regiones más grandes del país, probablemente la que concentra más ciudades del país, pero no la mayor población. La mayoría de las personas prefiere vivir al oeste, del lado europeo, precisamente porque es menos frío.

La Siberia es una región que no puedes dejar visitar si vas a Rusia, al menos de paso. Los paisajes que se encuentran ahí son de película. Esto, probablemente, represente la imagen que se tiene de la “Rusia fría”. Aunque sus temperaturas muchas veces no pueden ser toleradas por el cuerpo humano, es posible visitarla en “verano” y verse afectado en menor medida. Algunas de estas ciudades son Dikson, Dúdinka (donde incluso se celebra el Día del pastor de renos), Yakutsk (probablemente la ciudad más fría) y Norisk (la menos fría de la Siberia, según los rusos). A todas estas ciudades se puede acceder por tren o por vuelos de bajo costo. Debido a que son ciudades pequeñas, es posible conocerlas en uno o dos días, a diferencia de Moscú y San Petersburgo.

Otra alternativa es visitar Vladivostok, una ciudad que ha cobrado mucha importancia, económicamente hablando, en los últimos años. Aunque algunos afirman que esta esta ciudad no pertenece al región de la Siberia propiamente dicha, histórica y geográficamente (y climáticamente) sí pertenece. Vladivostok es uno de los principales puertos de Rusia, además por su proximidad con China, Corea y Japón. En esta ciudad, es posible hacer turismo con buenas condiciones y servicios. Por ello, mi recomendación es visitarla para tener una “experiencia rusa” sin arriesgarse tanto al frío.

Todo se congela durante el invierno ruso.

  1. Rusia underground

Sobre todo Moscú y San Petersburgo son muy conocidas por tener una vida bastante underground. Aunque a primera impresión pensemos que los rusos no son amigables por ser serios y no sonreír mucho. Te llevarás una gran sorpresa: son más amigables de lo que imaginas. Pese a la barrera idiomática, ya que muchos no hablan inglés, los rusos siempre son amables. Claro, lo serán siempre que uno quiera que lo sean. Un secreto para hacer amigos rusos en Rusia es el cigarro. Basta con que tengas uno en la mano para que inmediatamente se acerquen a pedirte fuego o preguntarte si puedes compartirles uno.

Un detalle que descubrí espontáneamente es que cada vez que sacaba un cigarro, había varios rusos a mi alrededor. Aunque ellos no hablaban inglés y ni yo ruso, empezábamos a entablar una conversación. Estos momentos eran únicos, increíbles. En todo viaje, hay situaciones en la que no puedes entender absolutamente nada de lo que pasa, pero hay algo en la comunicación que hace que fluya. Y en Rusia eso es posible por un cigarro.

La mayoría de rusos fuma y es una costumbre compartir el cigarro. Es muy normal. Además de eso, sucede que los cigarros en ese país suelen ser muy costosos. Es por eso que, si bien muchos fuman, no suelen comprar cigarros, por lo que esperan que otra persona los comparta. Entonces, al ver un extranjero con un cigarro, tengan por seguro que se acercarán a hablarte. Lo más probable es que a mitad de conversación, en agradecimiento, quieran ofrecerte vodka o wisky (eso sí es barato). Y, cuando menos te des cuenta, te habrán invitado a una fiesta en casa, a una fiesta bajo el puente o a un bar bohemio en calles no turísticas. No desconfíes. Es muy normal. Y, así sin darte cuenta, amanecerás habiendo explorado la verdadera Rusia. Lo dice un sobreviviente.

Jair Villacrez
Comunicador por la Universidad de Piura. Le interesa el Periodismo Internacional, Político y Económico. Le encanta la sátira social.
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